Ask Gege: Adding Tunisian Stitches

I received a question from a blog reader from Canada (welcome, eh!) that read:

"I have started a blanket with the Tunisian stitch.   The dilemma I am having right now is that I did not stitch enough rows.  I am wondering, can I somehow add rows to my already half done blanket?  Thanks for your time." 

I did respond to this reader, but thought, "This looks like a job for...*dun da da dun* Super Gege!"  After images of my glorious cape gracefully waving in the wind subsided, I decided that the only proper way to demonstrate how to do this was via video.  Sooooo......without further ado, here's my first installment of  "Ask Gege"



You can see the last remnant of my Neti Pot mishap, but as you can see, my Monkey's Paw has healed rather well.  I do hope this video helps!  I'll try to do more of these videos for questions that come my way.

Now I'm off to my creative hovel...and to make dinner.  On the menu?  Salmon en Papillote by Alton Brown.  Healthy, quick, easy and SOOOO YUM!

Bag Lining- It's a Good Thing

So, let me start off by saying I FREAKIN' LOVE my new sewing machine.  It's a Brother XR-9000 and it.is.awesome.  It truly has made lining my bags so much faster than that machine-that-shall-not-be-named could ever dream of doing.  Seriously- I love this machine!  

I've been asked about how I line my bags and I even shot a video over a year ago.  It was supposed to be my first Martha Stewart-esque video that would guarantee my own show on DIY channel.  However, it was over 3 hours of raw video and, considering I did a very non-Martha boo boo by burning the skin off my arm while ironing (yes, seriously), I decided that I'd let Martha retain her mogul status.....for now.

I basically figured out how to line my bags by putting together bits and pieces of things I found on the internet as well as being a maverick on my machine and then learning from my numerous mistakes.  However, I've finally got a system that works for me and decided that still photos can work almost as well as a video in a "how-to" tutorial... 

Hello and welcome to Gege Crochet Living!  Today we'll be demonstrating how to line and finish crocheted and felted hand bags.  For our demonstration today, we'll be using this absolutely scrumptious bag that was crocheted from my pattern, soon to be found here at Gege Crochet.  Let's get started, shall we?

First, you'll want to measure your bag's length and width. You may need to jot it down to remember it; however, I need no memory aids and am able to quickly add 1" to each measurement for a 1/2" sewing allowance. I measure with a level since it will make a perfect outcome and I like perfect. Since this bag will have a flat bottom, I also make note of the bottom width (precisely 2.5" for this bag).

Find the midpoint of the flap and insert a magnetic clasp.  

Fold the flap of the bag down and find where to place the second half of the magnet on the bag, being careful to place it precisely in the middle of the bag.  You may need to refresh your memory of your computation by looking at your notebook; however, I wouldn't know this by experience.

To ensure a perfect fit for your lining, utilize a spare piece of newspaper and measure out your dimensions. Using this newspaper as a pattern, pin it to your fabric. Of course, ensure that the fabric is folded in half and that the bottom of the pattern is pinned on the folded edge.

Once you cut your fabric, iron it on the folded edge to make a crisp crease on the mid-line.  Then, measure out 2.5" for the bottom of the bag by ironing and creasing 1 1/4" on each side of the mid-line.

What's that?  Oh, no.  The measuring level is not upside down.  Your eyes are.

Now, fold over the top of the bag 1/2".  Iron and pin into place.  Repeat on the other side, as well.

If you are making a pocket, and let's face it, why wouldn't you? then, now's the time to get it ready.  Figure out the size that you want and add 2" to the width and 1" to the height.  Cut out your paper pattern and pin it to your fabric which is, again, folded in half, wrong sides together.

On the raw edges of the pocket, fold and iron slightly less than 1/2" and then fold over and iron an additional 1/2".  Pin into place. 

This is to ensure that no raw edges are seen, even on the inside of the pocket.  What use is a pretty purse on the outside if the pocket is ugly on the inside?  Could you live with yourself?  I thought not.

To ensure the lining for the handles is the perfect width, measure the handle attachments and multiply by 4.  Mine was 3/4" so I need a 3" width for my fabric.

Once again, use a paper pattern and cut out 4 pieces of fabric (I use a 6" length for a long enough tail to handsew to the bag.) Iron in half, then fold each side to the middle and iron again.

Fold the sides in and then fold in half and pin into place.

Now that all of the pieces are measured and pinned into place, we can begin sewing.

Starting with the handles, sew a straight line close to the raw side of the fabric.  Turn the fabric the other way and make another seam the same distance from the other edge.  If you are not making a decorative edge *snooty giggle* then this is all you need to do.  

If you are going to go the extra mile and make your bag perfect, then utilize one of the many amazingly awesome decorative stitches on your Brother XR-9000 and make a masterpiece.

 Repeat for all four handles. 

Insert the lining into the handles, fold over and sew together.  The handles are now ready to be pinned into the bag.

Now, repeat the decorative stitches along the pinned top edges of the bag lining.  

Next, get the pocket (if you are putting a label in your pocket, now is the time to pin and sew it into place).  Sew along the pinned edges with a matching color (I used an "invisible" thread).

Once the pocket is finished,  pin it to the lining (ensuring it is centered) and then sew with a contrasting color to the lining.

When the pocket is in place, fold the lining right sides together and pin along the sides.  Sew 1/2" along the edge.  You now have a lining for a flat bag.  However, since our bag has a bottom, we are not quite done yet.

Iron the side edges flat, snipping the folded bottom of the edge (where my fingers are in the photo) so that it will be completely flat.

Now, fold the bottom of the bag into a point at the side.  You will see the crisp edges that you ironed for the mid-line and the 2 1/2" bottom.   See how you can draw a straight line from the top of the first ironed edge to the other?

Pin the fabric down and sew a straight line from one top of the crisp bottom edge to the other.

This is what it looks like if you did it correctly.  If not, you fail at life.

Trim off the triangle tip.  You now have a lining for a more boxy shape.  Even though our bag has a more rounded edge, this shape works well for our purposes.

To make the bottom of our bag flat and sturdy, use a piece of plastic canvas and cut to the proper size. 

Place it in the bottom of the bag and pin into place.  Be sure to look at the outside of the bag to make sure it looks even.

Turn the bag inside out and pin the handles into place, as well. Take your time to ensure they are centered around the flap. Crooked handles do not a perfect bag make.

 

Begin hand sewing the bottom and the handles into place. Since felt is so thick and full of little woolly tangles, you merely need to catch some of the felt with your needle rather than go all the way through the bag to the front.  Yes, I am using a thimble.  My heart is made of stone, not my fingers.

Once the handles are sewn in, flip the bag right-side out again and pin the lining into place, ensuring that the pocket is centered with the flap.

Using either a matching thread or the "invisible" one used previously, sew the lining into place with a very basic running stitch.  Again, no need to go all the way through the bag- just be sure to catch some of the felt with your needle. 

I go around a second time to ensure a tight stitch.  Where the needle is up the first time around, it will be below the second time, making a solid stitch line all the way around.

The lining is now sewn into place- all that is left is sewing the decorative accessory to the front of the flap, both for a beautifying effect and to hide the magnetic clasp.

Voila.

I hope you enjoyed today's Gege Crochet Living.  Remember, sewing a lining into your bag is a good thing.

Know what else is a good thing?  My Brother XR-9000.  Did you catch that label?  Yep- totally full of win.  

Gege Crochet Double Feature

At long last!  The 2 videos (actually 4 because of the length) are finally up!  Now I can finally tackle that mountain in my bedroom known as the laundry pile.  When my Mister starts his own load of laundry, I know it's bad....

Winter Watermelons part deux- free pattern!

Alright peeps! My long awaited Winter Watermelon scarf pattern is here! I finally sat down and wrote out the pattern. My very first! If you do make this pattern, please let me know if there are any mistakes in it so I can correct it. Also, please send me pics of your finished projects! I'd love to see them!

I completed a new hat, as well, but I still need to tweak that pattern before I list it here...so, more to come... AND....drum roll please! I have a video to supplement the pattern! It's for folks who don't know how to crochet through front/back loops only or who have never crocheted with beads before. YAY!

Here's a picture of the hat and scarf together:



And, here's the pattern!

PS: The Hat Pattern can be found here. 

Watermelon Scarf Pattern

MATERIALS
Green WW yarn- not a whole lot- maybe an ounce or 2
White WW yarn- ditto
Red or pink WW yarn- a little bit more...maybe 4 ounces

Size 6 mm (U.S. J/10) crochet hook
Yarn or tapestry needle for beading yarn and finishing
60 beads (you may have some left over)

GAUGE
Not important

NOTE:
Chain 2 does not count as half double crochet.

ABBREVIATIONS & TERMS
hdc = half double crochet
bhdc = beaded half double crochet
repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed

INSTRUCTIONS

With green, chain 187.
Row 1: 1 hdc in 3rd chain from hook. 1 hdc in each chain to end of ch. 185 hdc. Chain 2. Turn.

Row 2: 1 hdc in 1st hdc. 1 hdc in next hdc through back loop only. *1 hdc in next hdc through front loop only. 1 hdc in next hdc through back loop only. Repeat from * to last hdc. 1 hdc in last hdc. Fasten off green. Turn.

Row 3: Attach white. Chain 2. 1 hdc in 1st hdc. 1 hdc in next hdc through back loop only. *1 hdc in next hdc through front loop only. 1 hdc in next hdc through back loop only. Repeat from * to last hdc. 1 hdc in last hdc. Fasten off white. Turn.

Thread 60 beads onto red yarn before continuing.

Row 4: Attach red. Chain 2. 1 hdc in 1st hdc. 1 hdc in next hdc through back loop only. *1 hdc in next hdc through front loop only. 1 hdc in next hdc through back loop only. Repeat from * to last hdc. 1 hdc in last hdc. Chain 2. Turn.

Row 5: First beaded row. 1 hdc in 1st hdc. *(1 hdc in next hdc through back loop only. 1 hdc in next hdc through front loop only.) 4 times. 1 bhdc in next hdc through back loop only. 1 hdc in next hdc through front loop only. Repeat from * to last hdc. 1 hdc in last hdc. Turn.

Row 6: Repeat row 4

Row 7: Second beaded row. 1 hdc in 1st hdc. 1 hdc in next hdc through back loop only. 1 hdc in next hdc through front loop only. 1 hdc in next hdc through back loop only. 1 bhdc through front loop only. 1 hdc in next hdc through back loop only. *(1 hdc in next hdc through front loop only. 1 hdc in next hdc through back loop only.) 4 times. 1 bhdc in next hdc through front loop only. 1 hdc in next hdc through back loop only. Repeat from * to last hdc. 1 hdc in last hdc. Turn.

Row 8: Repeat row 4

Row 9: Repeat row 5

Row 10: Repeat row 4

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Copyright 2009 Gege Crochet. All rights reserved. Pattern available for personal use only- please don't sell it- that's just not cool. Please don't post this pattern anywhere- you can provide a link back to here, though.