Bag Lining- It's a Good Thing

So, let me start off by saying I FREAKIN' LOVE my new sewing machine.  It's a Brother XR-9000 and it.is.awesome.  It truly has made lining my bags so much faster than that machine-that-shall-not-be-named could ever dream of doing.  Seriously- I love this machine!  

I've been asked about how I line my bags and I even shot a video over a year ago.  It was supposed to be my first Martha Stewart-esque video that would guarantee my own show on DIY channel.  However, it was over 3 hours of raw video and, considering I did a very non-Martha boo boo by burning the skin off my arm while ironing (yes, seriously), I decided that I'd let Martha retain her mogul status.....for now.

I basically figured out how to line my bags by putting together bits and pieces of things I found on the internet as well as being a maverick on my machine and then learning from my numerous mistakes.  However, I've finally got a system that works for me and decided that still photos can work almost as well as a video in a "how-to" tutorial... 

Hello and welcome to Gege Crochet Living!  Today we'll be demonstrating how to line and finish crocheted and felted hand bags.  For our demonstration today, we'll be using this absolutely scrumptious bag that was crocheted from my pattern, soon to be found here at Gege Crochet.  Let's get started, shall we?

First, you'll want to measure your bag's length and width. You may need to jot it down to remember it; however, I need no memory aids and am able to quickly add 1" to each measurement for a 1/2" sewing allowance. I measure with a level since it will make a perfect outcome and I like perfect. Since this bag will have a flat bottom, I also make note of the bottom width (precisely 2.5" for this bag).

Find the midpoint of the flap and insert a magnetic clasp.  

Fold the flap of the bag down and find where to place the second half of the magnet on the bag, being careful to place it precisely in the middle of the bag.  You may need to refresh your memory of your computation by looking at your notebook; however, I wouldn't know this by experience.

To ensure a perfect fit for your lining, utilize a spare piece of newspaper and measure out your dimensions. Using this newspaper as a pattern, pin it to your fabric. Of course, ensure that the fabric is folded in half and that the bottom of the pattern is pinned on the folded edge.

Once you cut your fabric, iron it on the folded edge to make a crisp crease on the mid-line.  Then, measure out 2.5" for the bottom of the bag by ironing and creasing 1 1/4" on each side of the mid-line.

What's that?  Oh, no.  The measuring level is not upside down.  Your eyes are.

Now, fold over the top of the bag 1/2".  Iron and pin into place.  Repeat on the other side, as well.

If you are making a pocket, and let's face it, why wouldn't you? then, now's the time to get it ready.  Figure out the size that you want and add 2" to the width and 1" to the height.  Cut out your paper pattern and pin it to your fabric which is, again, folded in half, wrong sides together.

On the raw edges of the pocket, fold and iron slightly less than 1/2" and then fold over and iron an additional 1/2".  Pin into place. 

This is to ensure that no raw edges are seen, even on the inside of the pocket.  What use is a pretty purse on the outside if the pocket is ugly on the inside?  Could you live with yourself?  I thought not.

To ensure the lining for the handles is the perfect width, measure the handle attachments and multiply by 4.  Mine was 3/4" so I need a 3" width for my fabric.

Once again, use a paper pattern and cut out 4 pieces of fabric (I use a 6" length for a long enough tail to handsew to the bag.) Iron in half, then fold each side to the middle and iron again.

Fold the sides in and then fold in half and pin into place.

Now that all of the pieces are measured and pinned into place, we can begin sewing.

Starting with the handles, sew a straight line close to the raw side of the fabric.  Turn the fabric the other way and make another seam the same distance from the other edge.  If you are not making a decorative edge *snooty giggle* then this is all you need to do.  

If you are going to go the extra mile and make your bag perfect, then utilize one of the many amazingly awesome decorative stitches on your Brother XR-9000 and make a masterpiece.

 Repeat for all four handles. 

Insert the lining into the handles, fold over and sew together.  The handles are now ready to be pinned into the bag.

Now, repeat the decorative stitches along the pinned top edges of the bag lining.  

Next, get the pocket (if you are putting a label in your pocket, now is the time to pin and sew it into place).  Sew along the pinned edges with a matching color (I used an "invisible" thread).

Once the pocket is finished,  pin it to the lining (ensuring it is centered) and then sew with a contrasting color to the lining.

When the pocket is in place, fold the lining right sides together and pin along the sides.  Sew 1/2" along the edge.  You now have a lining for a flat bag.  However, since our bag has a bottom, we are not quite done yet.

Iron the side edges flat, snipping the folded bottom of the edge (where my fingers are in the photo) so that it will be completely flat.

Now, fold the bottom of the bag into a point at the side.  You will see the crisp edges that you ironed for the mid-line and the 2 1/2" bottom.   See how you can draw a straight line from the top of the first ironed edge to the other?

Pin the fabric down and sew a straight line from one top of the crisp bottom edge to the other.

This is what it looks like if you did it correctly.  If not, you fail at life.

Trim off the triangle tip.  You now have a lining for a more boxy shape.  Even though our bag has a more rounded edge, this shape works well for our purposes.

To make the bottom of our bag flat and sturdy, use a piece of plastic canvas and cut to the proper size. 

Place it in the bottom of the bag and pin into place.  Be sure to look at the outside of the bag to make sure it looks even.

Turn the bag inside out and pin the handles into place, as well. Take your time to ensure they are centered around the flap. Crooked handles do not a perfect bag make.

 

Begin hand sewing the bottom and the handles into place. Since felt is so thick and full of little woolly tangles, you merely need to catch some of the felt with your needle rather than go all the way through the bag to the front.  Yes, I am using a thimble.  My heart is made of stone, not my fingers.

Once the handles are sewn in, flip the bag right-side out again and pin the lining into place, ensuring that the pocket is centered with the flap.

Using either a matching thread or the "invisible" one used previously, sew the lining into place with a very basic running stitch.  Again, no need to go all the way through the bag- just be sure to catch some of the felt with your needle. 

I go around a second time to ensure a tight stitch.  Where the needle is up the first time around, it will be below the second time, making a solid stitch line all the way around.

The lining is now sewn into place- all that is left is sewing the decorative accessory to the front of the flap, both for a beautifying effect and to hide the magnetic clasp.

Voila.

I hope you enjoyed today's Gege Crochet Living.  Remember, sewing a lining into your bag is a good thing.

Know what else is a good thing?  My Brother XR-9000.  Did you catch that label?  Yep- totally full of win.  

There's a Silver Lining in Every Bag

I really need to get going on lining some of my bags. Since I posted a couple weeks ago, I've done zilch on the sewing front.  I'd much rather crochet than sew. The end.  However, some comments on my previous rant  blog post about my pile-o-poo sewing machine by the VERY informative Karen has prompted me to put the pedal to the metal, as it were.  Wait- let's pause right here- go read her comments- don't worry I'll wait.

*dumdedumdedum.....I need to do laundry....and clean the kitchen....I hope those folks hurry up.....I wish my nose would stop running....whoo- I really shouldn't have eaten those peppers for lunch today......*  

Oh good! You're back!

How awesome was that?? Thank you so much Karen!! (Btw- Karen belongs to a group called The Hat Ladies who make and donate hats to cancer patients in Corona, California.  If you have time, send a couple hats their way!)
(ETA: Karen now has a blog!  Check her out at http://artfulcrafts-karen.blogspot.com/ )

I really wish that I had access to all that information a long time ago!  However, the good news is that I got a new machine for the New Year.  My hubby was very sympathetic to my frustrations with my other turd pile machine and got me a FANTASTIC Brother XR-9000.  It's a digital machine and has 120+ decorative stitches PLUS a font stitch. (It was on sale at Costco- they will sometimes have a $30 coupon in their mailers- check it out.)  I've used it once to line a Watermelon Tote last month and I had absolutely no issues with it. I actually, dare I say it, ENJOYED sewing with it.  It's smooth, quiet, and, best of all, it doesn't gobble my thread.  (You can actually see it behind my shoulder in my Watermelon Hat pattern video which will be posted either tonight or tomorrow- yay!)

My old nemesis machine is a Singer 2932.  AFTER I bought and fought with this machine, I found these reviews from Joanns and these ones from Amazon and couldn't help feeling a little vindicated.  It wasn't just operator error!  I knew that I wasn't all that incompetent.  I read my manual and had tried changing needles and adjusting the bobbin tension and even maneuvering the needle by hand with the wheel. Nothing.worked.  

I know that it's because of my very negative experience with my old sewer reject machine that I've been a little gun shy to really have a go with my new one.  My Brother seems just too good to be true.  However, I do have to get going. I have another Watermelon Tote to line, my Traveling Turtle Bag, the companion Turtle Handbag, the Not Quite Mitered bag, and, this- my Purple Haze Traveling Bag.  

ACK!!  I LOVE IT!!!  I couldn't find the right handles for it for ages, which truly is the main reason I've not lined it yet.  However, I was rummaging around the Good Will and found the *perfect* pair this week.  So, hopefully I'll be able to get some lining accomplished this weekend.  I really want to finish it very soon.  The Traveling Turtle Bag is an overnight sized bag.  This one is more like a long weekend sized.  It's freakin' huge.  And I love it.  (ETA: I was writing up the pattern to this bag as I was crocheting it, so the pattern should be up relatively soon...part of my New Year's Resolutions list thingy.)

So, thank you again, Karen, for both your wealth of knowledge and for giving me the push I needed to get back on the horse sewing-wise. It is very much appreciated!

.....and Old Trash

Now, here comes the "Old Trash" portion of the blog.

I HATE MY SEWING MACHINE. My husband bought it for me for Christmas last year. We went to Joann's together and he let me choose the one I wanted to ensure it was a good one. HA! I should have done so much more research (or any at all...) prior to that trip. My mother has a Singer machine and I knew that it had a good reputation. Hers is a work horse- it was like 25 years old and she sewed everything with it- now mind you this was 20 years ago....she STILL uses it! That sucker is about 50 years old and it's still running strong. So, of course, I thought it was a no brainer- just chuck whichever Singer machine off the shelf and into my cart and I'll be merrily stitching along well into my golden years.

NO. SUCH. LUCK. My relationship with this p.o.shaving cream began a couple of months after Christmas. First mistake....the warranty is only good for 90 days...a fact that bit me in the butt while I was working on the Chocolate Strawberry bag....but I get ahead of myself. I bought a ton of patterns at Joanns that were on sale for a buck. I chose one that I absolutely loved since I saw the example on the mannequin in the store. However, since I haven't sewn since I was just a wee jumping bean, I decided to practice on some old fabric...my hubby's bed sheets from college. (As an aside, my hubby is fastidious when it comes to taking care of his stuff...his bedsheets, though over 15 years old, were barely beginning to fade. No, we hadn't used them in 10 years, but you get the idea.) I was very pleased with the final outcome, though it came through so much anger, strife, tears, and screams at that machine. For some reason, my machine loves to gobble up the thread from under the feet and then leave me with a nice, huge, tangled bow which I have to spend hours ripping out before trying again. I took it back to the store and they said, "Operator error." I wasn't making sure the needle was ALLLLL the way up before removing my work and cutting the thread, so it was pulling a ton of thread from the bobbin.

Ok, so I can admit when I'm wrong...I was wrong to buy a machine that doesn't have the automatic needle raise function. ARGH. So, fast forward a few months...I've now got a handle on raising the needle to ensure there aren't any more tangles (though, it does still happen from time to time...even when I do make sure the needle is up....the thing is possesed I tell you.) So, I was working on the Netski bag- remember the nice detailed stitching on the handles and interior? Well, I've loved it so much that I've incorporated it into every bag that has a plain fabric for lining. However, I didn't want to just have the same stitches over and over again. That's when the other shoe dropped- there are over 30 decorative stitches available on my machine....only 5 work. ARRRRRGHHHH!!

Through no character flaw of my own, I decided to wait before calling the store to see if they could fix it. You know, in case it decided to say, "Oh! I'm so sorry I've been causing you so much grief Gege! Poof!" and spontaneously fix itself. Sooo...I was working on the Chocolate Strawberry bag and I was using the same stitch I'd been using on all the previous bags. And then I noticed...the darn stitch wasn't working anymore. !!!!!!

I called Joanns...they told me that they just sell the machines....they don't fix the machines. So I'd have to send it back to Singer. I called Singer....they told me that my 90 day warranty was up, so tough cookies. I called a local sewing machine company....they'd fix my machine for free...IF...I had bought it from them. Otherwise, it's $90. NINETY DOLLARS. Pfft- whatever queers. I'm going to utilize the same stitching as long as I can and put that 90 bucks towards a better machine. I took out the needle and tried reinsterting it...maybe it got loose and that's why my ol' faithful stitch wasn't working. That did seem to do the trick, but only for that one stitch. none of the others work still.

Sooo.....now you'll see the same decorative stitch on all my bags. I guess it's a trademark. ;)

Ok- rant off...hopefully I'll get a shiny new machine this Christmas, right honey? Honey? Bueller?